Recommended glue/cement?

I'll be using good 'ol Testors plastic cement.

The metal tube, yes. I've never had a problem with it on hard plastic. Have been using it for over a decade.

Started assembling a recovery pod. Testors is perfect.

I know GW uses a polystyrene plastic, I just don't know what kind exactly. I've used Testors on their plastic kits as well.

So, after sifting through the forum a little I notice there seems to be an inordinate amount of concern over glue. I came across 4 threads discussing glue for multiple posts. Here's the deal to break it down (I'm not going to get into the chemistry, it's overkill):

1 - Cyanoacrylate will absolutely work on these models. If you have a problem using it, then one of two things is going on - your plastic needs to be cleaned or your glue is old/bad. The zap a gap line of glues are popular but most glues you'll find in a game store are of this kind. Most "super" or krazy glues fall into this category.

2 - Testors model glue will work fine. Some find it nice because it's cheap and easy to get and for models this small with a mind to using it sparingly you will have no issues what so ever. I personally don't use testors because cyanoacrylate has always worked for me.

If you have any questions at all on whether your glue will work on your minis before assembling, cut a couple of pieces of the sprue off and glue them together!

I don't know if it's because the game just got released and there's been very little to talk about lol or what but I've never seen so much concern over glue. I've been modelling (military) and assembling game models of all kinds since the 80's. It's possible I'm really lucky but I've never had any major issues using cyanoacrylate on just about everything. Occasionally because I don't always (honestly almost never) clean my models some metal pieces may take slightly longer to bond. Otherwise there are materials these glues won't work on but you won't see them in gaming.

The best two tips for glue if this is a real concern for you is 1: test it on extra pieces or sprue and 2: use it sparingly. It's not rocket science and more often than not the biggest problem I see with people and gluing models together is the amount they use - too much and you get globs, spill over and finger prints. Too little and you won't always get a strong enough bond. My rule of thumb is to apply enough to cover the entire surface I intend to glue.

Certainly it never hurts and I've heard of people having issues.  Anecdotally I've been modelling now for almost 30 years and I've washed models maybe 3 times and I've never personally had issues but I could have just been lucky.  They don't use as much mold release on the plastics with the metal molds but the silicon molds for metal tend to require a little more.

My models should arrive later this week and I'll certainly test and post but ultimately like I said there's no reason to fuss over this. Most of us use one of two different types of glue to assemble models and both will work just fine.

Hey guys. I started trying to use regular super glue and I can tell you for a fact DON'T!!

Got a bottle of Model Master precision and some Testors Plastic cement. They both work very well. I love the precision applicator tip, SO critical for all the fiddly little bits on some of these models. So in short after playing with a few different things, get model cement and relax.

That's the stuff! Makes building these models go from frustration to joy!

Loctite Super glue it works on everything from all kinds of plastics to Metals. And it holds very well 5 Sec dry time.

Ok the discussion is about what glues can be used with these models, PB has stated they are made of ABS plastic, make sure the glue you use is ABS friendly, not all modelling glues are ABS friendly, for starters the red testors metal tube is not ABS friendly (Testors does have a few glues that is ABS friendly and even at least one in a container like the model master cement) glue that is not friendly with ABS will not be noticed immediately but over time, certain glues will cause ABS to dissolve and pit and basically cause your model to become brittle over time, this is what the LEGO people are saying, and it is true, so be careful of what glue your using unless you don't plan to have your models long.

So the Testor's Model Master cement is safe for ABS even though it says it joins polystyrene to polystyrene? I'm so confused. I am so used to using plain old Super Glue on my Warhammer and D&D minis I never considered long term damage to the plastic.

I have been using Model Master cement for small parts and precision work. I used regular Testors cement for large parts (like gluing regult legs on). And finally I used Zap CA+ cyanoacrylate for gluing in magnets when I assembled my artillery pods. Everything has worked well.

I'll lay a drop or two then use the side of the needle applicator to spread it all over the seam. I end up getitng buildup around the needle but it;s easy to scrape away but it makes for a nice even application

It's ok. I bought some of the Testor's cement yesterday and glued up a Glaug Command box. While super glue is easier to work with, the Testor's really forms a much better bond. I'm very impressed. These models will stand up to handling far better than my Warhammer Lizardmen do.