Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Oct 8, 2014 23:37:08 GMT
Brian Sherry 1 minute ago
Got my Battle Cry today. Everything is present and accounted for and I am awed by the sheer amount of minis I have to assemble. I did a Veritech figuring I would try the hardest first. It is hard, and I say that a a very experienced modeler. Regular super glue that works on GW kits and metals doesn't work, and the waist joint for attaching the legs to the torso is a real pain. I used Zip kicker to get the glue to stick. What are people using, the Tamiya model master plastic glue? I think the parts are excessive and as a result the amount of mold lines and trimming necessary is a bear. Perhaps once it's painted it will look better. This is going to be a chore...
|
|
|
|
Post by ItsUncertainWho on Oct 9, 2014 13:48:10 GMT
I will be using the Testors Model Master liquid cement I have been using for years.
As for looking better when painted..... based on the pro painted display minis at GenCon, they will be anywhere from passable to looking like the grand canyon due to the seams.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Oct 9, 2014 14:43:28 GMT
actually it all depends on the modeler whoever did the stuff displayed at GC was not as great as many think they are, or PB didn't pay for a professional job and only a table job, hiding seams is doable for professionals maybe not easy in these minis cases but doable.
|
|
|
|
Post by cutedge on Oct 16, 2014 23:18:46 GMT
I was going to ask about this. So the Testor's red and white cement doesn't work on these models?
|
|
|
|
Post by civilinhumanitys on Oct 25, 2014 0:57:11 GMT
I'm using the Model master and Plasti bond the seams are not bad you just need pay attention to he clean up before you build them.
|
|
Phaze
New Member
Posts: 3 
|
Post by Phaze on Oct 25, 2014 19:01:45 GMT
I use Plastruct Plasti Weld. Works really well and creates a permanent bond. It even hides some of the seams.
|
|
|
|
Post by BZArcher on Oct 25, 2014 21:26:07 GMT
I've been using the HobbyTown Maxi-Cure CA glue - seems to be working well. Zap-A-Gap medium also did OK, but took longer to really bond.
|
|
grabula
New Member
In the bowels of the SDF 1
Posts: 63
|
Post by grabula on Oct 27, 2014 2:44:00 GMT
scarapis, I didn't see you mention what glue you were using but if you're using zip kicker I have to assume a cyanocrylate? No reason that shouldn't work on these models - in fact I know a few people who have assembled them using regular modelling glue with no issues. I suspect your frames may have had excess mold release on them and may need to be cleaned.
They do look pretty complex, the pieces that are halved like the arms could have been made a lot more simple.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Nov 22, 2014 4:15:46 GMT
scarapis, I didn't see you mention what glue you were using but if you're using zip kicker I have to assume a cyanocrylate? No reason that shouldn't work on these models - in fact I know a few people who have assembled them using regular modelling glue with no issues. I suspect your frames may have had excess mold release on them and may need to be cleaned. They do look pretty complex, the pieces that are halved like the arms could have been made a lot more simple. I haven't started working on my models and if I ever do which not sure I will I'll be using an ABS friendly glue. |
|
|
|
Post by drahazar on Nov 27, 2014 14:00:08 GMT
Locktight super glue works great on everything and it's safe
|
|
